New Hampshire Missing Places: Gosport, Isles of Shoals

Situated on the northern end of Star Island,

one of the sevens ‘isles’ that make up the Isles of Shoals, sits an almost forgotten village, formerly known as Gosport. [IMPORTANT NOTE: The proper name is IsleS of ShoalS, not the singular of either of those two words.]

This town was probably named after the town of Gosport in Hampshire England, which like the Gosport of New Hampshire, also lies opposite a place called Portsmouth. Star Island itself contains about 180 acres of rock and soil, and its height is 55 feet.

At one time Gosport was a thriving little community, incorporated  24 Dec 1715. Depending on who you want to believe, the community was either “a motley shifting community of fishermen, seal hunters, sailors, smugglers and picaroons,” or they were “industrious,prudent, temperate, and regular and decent in their attendance on the institutions of religion.” [per “The Isles of Shoals,” by John Scribner Jenness, 1873]

Although the Shoals islands of Appledore and Smutty Nose had been settled first, toward the close of the seventeenth century Star Island suddenly gained in popularity. The golden age for Star Island, and for the Shoals generally, was the middle of the 18th century. Then there were three or four hundred inhabitants on all the islands and fishing was the primary industry. As late at 1767 Gosport alone had 284 residents.

The earliest settlers on the Isles of Shoals were Episcopalians. About 1652 the Rev. John Brock was sent to the Isles (Appledore, first called Hog Island) by the Boston Puritans, and he remained there until 1662, converting many.

Among the earliest settlers, was my fifth-great grandfather, William Urin, (surname also spelled Youring, Urann, Uran, Uren, Yuran, etc.) and his wife Eleanor.  He was at the Isles of Shoals as early as 1653 when he received a grant of land there. He died on the Isles of Shoals in 1664. His son John, although born on the Shoals, removed to Greenland NH, and later to Portsmouth NH. John was one of the grantees of the town of Epsom NH.

Although in general the inhabitants were “industrious, prudent, and temperate,” there were others who thought badly of the local constables, and who obviously enjoyed their drink.   Joane Ford was punished by nine stripes “for calling the constable horn-headed rogue and cow-head rogue.”  Robert Mace, my son’s ancestor through his father’s line, was presented in York court “for abusing the constable by very opprobrious Languidg.” Bartholomew Mitchell, Rebora Downs, and Bartholomew Burrington were charged with assailing the Shoals’ constable, “by words and blows, and threatening to break his neck on the rocks…”  In 1667 ten fishermen were convicted of drinking twelve gallons of wine in one day.

Nor were these islanders, including those of Gosport, particularly interested in participating in politics or paying taxes.  In 1711 Star Island was served with a warrant to send a representative to the House, and again in 1716, “but they paid no attention to either summons.” The government then annexed Star Island to New Castle for election and assessment purposes, but they neither attended the election, nor paid the rates. From 1804 to 1845 no town meeting was held. It was not until 1851 when the New Hampshire legislature allowed “a handful of fishermen at Gosport” one Representative to the House or General Court. The last town meeting of Gosport was held 14 March 1876. In that same year Star Island was annexed to the town of Rye, New Hampshire.

According to Celia Thaxter, the Isles of Shoals natives had an ancient courting tradition. “If a youth fell in love with a maid, he lay in wait till she passed by, and then pelted her with stones…so that if a fair Shoaler found herself the centre of a volley of missles, she might be sure that an ardent admirer was expressing himself…If she turned, and exhibited any curiosity…her doubts were dispelled by another shower; but if she went on her way in maiden meditation, then was her swain in despair, and life…became a burden to him.”

Although the residents of Gosport lived in “so healthy a place,” unfortunately many of them succumbed to consumption due to their living in close quarters for so much of the year. Celia Thaxter said, “I have seen a little room containing a whole family, fishing-boots and all, bed, furniture, cooking-stove in full blast, and an oil lamp with a wick so high that the deadly smoke rose steadily, filling the air with…’filthiest gloom,’ and mingling with the incense of ancient tobacco-pipes smoked by both sexes…every crack and cranny was stopped.”

At the outbreak of the American Revolution, the residents of the Isles of Shoals were ordered to leave the island, to prevent them from giving shelter or sustenance to the enemy (a second version says the islanders left because they were afraid of attacks by the British).  In 1775 only forty-four persons remained there.  After the war ended a few families returned, but it never prospered again.

In 1800 Gosport had fifteen families and ninety-two persons. In 1811 Star Island only had eleven families and two “solitaires” — in total fifty-two residents.  In September of 1824 Rev. Samuel Sewell found fourteen families and one “solitary,” in all sixty-nine persons. In 1832 the population actually increased to ninety-nine. The last of the “Shoalers” was John B. Downs who died at North Hampton NH 23 April 1888, age 77.

The town of Gosport was five-eighths of a mile long and one mile wide. Reportedly a meeting house church, built here in the early 1700s using the timber from the wreck of a Spanish Ship in 1685, was rebuilt in 1720, and had been set on fire by a gang of fisherman and burnt to the ground in 1790.

Later the center of Gosport was a tiny stone church that sat “perched like a sea-gull on its highest rock.” [from “An Old Town by the Sea, ” T.B. Aldrich, 1874]. The church was thirty-six by twenty-four feet on the outside. This meeting house was dedicated on 24 Nov 1800. The building had stone walls two feet thick, and reportedly was made of this material so that “the inhabitants can not burn it for fuel, and it will be imperishable.” In 1859 a weather-vane in the form of a fish was added to the stone church’s steeple.  (Note: this church still exists).

The town never had a wharf.  In 1766 the people petitioned for the privilege of getting up a lottery to build one. Not far from the meeting house was a school-house, and a parsonage built for the Rev. Josiah Stevens in 1802, when he married the daughter of Samuel Haley of Smutty Nose and settled in Gosport for life.  The original burial ground was among the rocks near the town.

Buried near Gosport was Rev. John Tucke, minister and doctor for Gosport from 1733 until 1773. The newer grave-yard on Star Island is on the western side of the island, where the Tucke and Stevens monuments can be found.

Eventually the residents and then the memory of the town of Gosport disappeared from the face of the earth. The inhabitants were bought out, so that it could be converted into a summer resort. By 1870 a large summer hotel, The Oceanic, was built on Star Island by John R. Poor, who acquired title to the entire island with the exception of one dwelling and land owned by John B. Downs. Eventually Mr. Downs’ heirs sold out to Poor. The hotel burned, and was rebuilt. Poor himself moved on, selling to the Laighton brothers, Oscar and Cedric. They ran the hotel until the Star Island Corporation purchased Star and Appledore.

Sarah Orne Jewett wrote in 1881, the poem “On Star Island

High on the lichened ledges, like
 A lonely sea-fowl on its perch,
Blown by the cold sea winds, it stands,
 Old Gosport’s quaint forsaken church.

No sign is left of all the town
 Except a few forgotten graves;
But to and fro the white sails go
 Slowly across the glittering waves;

And summer idlers stray about
 With curious questions of the lost
And vanished village, and its men,
 Whose boats by these same waves were
  tossed.

I wonder if the old church dreams
 About its parish, and the days
The fisher people came to hear
 The preaching and the songs of praise!

Rough-handed, browned by sun and wind,
 Heedless of fashion or of creed,
They listened to the parson’s words–
 Their pilot heavenward indeed.

Their eyes on week-days sought the church,
 Their surest landmark, and the guide
That led them in from far at sea,
 Until they anchored safe beside

The harbor wall that braved the storm
 With its resistless strength of stone,
Those busy fishers all are gone–
 The church is standing here alone.

But still I hear their voices strange,
 And still I see the people go
Over the ledges to their homes:
 The bent old women’s footsteps slow;

The faithful parson stop to give
 Some timely word to one astray;
The little children hurrying on
 Together, chattering of their play.

I know the blue sea covered some,
 And others in the rocky ground
Found narrow lodgings for their bones–
 God grant their rest is sweet and sound!

I saw the worn rope idle hang
 Beside me in the belfry brown.
I gave the bell a solemn toll–
 I rang the knell for Gosport town.

The Isles of Shoals was assigned NH Historical Marker #18, placed in Rye NH (rather than actually ON the Shoals because you cannot drive here!). The sign reads: “About six miles directly out to sea, this cluster of islands abounds in legend and history. Before 1614, when the famous Captain John Smith mapped the rocky and surf-lashed Isles, early fishermen, traders and explorers had a part in their history.”

Janice

*ADDITIONAL READING*

Reuben Tracy’s Vacation Trips, by Elizabeth Porter Gould Bay State monthly, 1884-

An Old Town by the Sea, T.B. Aldrich, Harpers New Monthly Magazine, 1874-

The Tragic Tale of Beebe’s Babies

Early photos of Isles of Shoals, NH Historical Society Catalog

Current Photo: Star Island chapel

-Current Photos: Star Island, Isles of Shoals

– New Hampshire’s “Lakawaka”: Terror of the Isles of Shoals

This entry was posted in Haunted New Hampshire, History, N.H. Historical Markers, N.H. Missing Places and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

39 Responses to New Hampshire Missing Places: Gosport, Isles of Shoals

  1. Gloria Padach says:

    I am looking for information for a descendent of Jonathan Allard who was said to have been baptized 14 May 1749 at Gosport, Isle of Shols, New Hampshire. Marla Sue Burns mother was Barbara Wells Allard. She descends throuh Jonathan Allard son Daniel Allard born c 1766. Jonathan Allard served as an Ensign in the US Navy, as records show. If proven we would like him to be added to the DAR records as a patriot. Any information will be greatly appriciated

    Gloria Padach, Regent
    Patient Wright Chapter NSDAR Laguna Beach, CA

    • Jeanine Hanson says:

      Hi, My husband is a decedent of the Allard’s of New Hampshire also. This is a hard family to figure out. We believe that Job Allard of Farmington – Married Charity Ham – was the line that he came from.
      Did you receive any responses to your posting?

  2. Ann Hanson says:

    My 5th great grandfather, Timothy Condry (Tymothy Condre) was born in Gosport to Dennis and Mary (Kreswell) Condry in 1731. Really enjoyed this article about the history of the Isles of Shoals.

  3. Candyce says:

    I really enjoyed reading this Gosport blog. I have discovered that my 8x great-grandfather, John Muchmore, was a fisherman who was born, lived, and died on Star Island. I would like to know if anyone could search the graveyard to see if the Muchmore family members are buried there.

    • JoeK says:

      Hi Candyce, my 8x grandfather and grandmother were William and Eleanor Urin. Eleanor would have been the mother-in-law to John Muchmore. William died at an [early] age. Her second husband, Richard Woolcome was father and she was mother to Anne, who married John. While 3 of 4 of Anne’s half-brothers left Isles of Shoals as adults, she and her husband stayed on and rais d their children on the island. I have a feeling Eleanor was close to Anne and John. Evidence that she trusted her son-in-law is that she put him in charge of her estate, which was approved by John Urin, her 3rd son by William, and my 7x great grandfather.

    • JoeK says:

      And by the way, in my research, I just found out that Sarah J Hale, milliner, poet, author, “Mother of Thanksgiving” is a descendant of William Urin. Check it out. I’m not sure if that works into your line, but if it does, she’s definitely a jewel in any family crown. Among her many contributions is her nursery rhyme, “Mary’s Lamb,” or “Mary Had a Little Lamb.”

      • Janice Brown says:

        Joe,
        I am also a descendant also of William Urin. I only traced Sarah J. Hale’s paternal Buell line and I don’t see the Urin surname. Can you tell me how she is descended?
        Janice Brown

        • JoeK says:

          Ok, Janice and Candyce, I have learned my lesson. I believe I misunderstood your post, Janice. I saw the name, Sarah J. Hale above your post and I thought it was written by Ms. Hale. So I passed along misinformation. I will certainly be more careful in the future.
          Now I understand that you wrote the info on Isles of Shoals (well done, btw). And so YOU are the descendant of William Urin, not Sarah J Hale.
          It’s still pretty amazing to find other descendants online. I’ll bet our ancestors never dreamed that they’d be resurrected 400 years later by technology such as is available to us.

  4. Laurence Bussey says:

    I just returned from “Gosport Village”, on Star Island. We were engaged in a 5-day conference with ISHRA, the Isles of Shoals Historic and Research Association. About 60 members attended workshops on archaeology of the Shoals, including ground penetrating radar surveys of the Caswell cemetery and surrounding areas; ghost stories, historic character enactments, and the super-excellent meals prepared by the Oceanic Hotel staff.
    I’m researching early families of Gosport, Smuttynose and the Shoals, so if you have additional information on family members you’d like to share, I’d be pleased to include them in my research.
    I encourage each of you who have responded to this blog, to come to Star Island and become immersed in the history and surroundings your forebearers experienced. Check out http://www.starisland.org, and http://www.ishra.org. Contact me any time. Laurence Bussey – skipper@neyachts.com. 603 433-3222.

  5. Mike muchmore says:

    There are a couple of the Muchmore decendents in Maine still.

    • Laurence Bussey says:

      Mike: Yes, and I had the pleasure of knowing one who lived in Portsmouth. He was a driver for Portsmouth Chevrolet in the nineties, and I chatted with him considerably about the Shoals family of Muchmores. Great heritage! My research is concentrating on all families living specifically on Smuttynose Island throughout the 17th and 18th centuries. Did you know that recently archaeology by Nate Hamilton and crew, University of Southern Maine, has taken the “occupancy” of the island back 6000 years? Fun and interesting stuff! –Buzz

  6. Mike muchmore says:

    Laurence, that was my uncle bobby that you spoke with. He passed several years ago. My aunt Marion Whithee is the last of the brothers and sisters. My father was Everett. I live in Westport Maine but there are other Muchmores in the Biddeford area. There was a Muchmore Family Association that held biannual reunions in Elliot for a while run by Reggie Muchmore.

    • Tracie Gebhardt says:

      Mike, Candace, Joe,
      My uncle was Reggie Muchemore and I remember him researching for the Muchemore Family Association. He was a special guy! It was great to find this blog/discussion as I am interested in learning more about their connection to the Isles of Shoals. I heard that one of the children of John married a woman from New Caslte and he built a house that is right next to the old post office and is still there! I am curious as to who they were and their livelihood ect.

  7. maizyqueen says:

    Does anyone have information on John Robinson Beckman?

  8. Wendy Currier Zumwalt says:

    Thrilled to find this site. My first known ancestor started on the Isles and I have only found one person who researched them (and published info on the 3 separate lines)–Jeffrey Currier. Still not sure where he came from and my direct line has missing names. Just came back from a boat trip out to Star Island and was shocked at how small it was. I just needed to see where we came from. Wendy Currier Zumwalt

    • I also have Currier ancestors born in Gosport–Edward Currier, baptized July 13, 1760. Parents were Richard Currier “Tertius” and Mary. Richard appears to be son of Richard Currier Bapt. in Gosport Sept 1, 1734, son of Richard and Love Currier.

  9. Cindy Barris-Speke says:

    Which of the Isles of Shoals was the Great or Grand island? Had ancestors married there- Odiorne family.

    • Janice Brown says:

      Cindy, I can’t find any source that states that there was a Grand or a Great Island as part of the chain of Isle of Shoals islands. Perhaps your ancestors meant Star Island if they were married when the so-called “Grand” hotel existed there. Do you have a date and a copy of the original marriage record?

      • Cindy Barris-Speke says:

        Deliverance Odiorne and Robert Clements married in 1690.

        • Janice Brown says:

          It appears that the marriage of Deliverance Oddihorn/Odionre and Robert Clement was registered in Haverhill, Massachusetts. The date was 18 December 1690. There is a place called Great Island at Wellfleet Massachusetts, on Cape Cod, however that is 138 miles away. What document or reference do you have that makes you believe they were married on the Isle of Shoals. The Odiorne family was one of the earliest in New Hampshire, and my Uran and Rand families were probably friends and neighbors.

    • David Caswell says:

      Cindy, New Castle, NH was sometimes known as Great Island. My Caswell (Kerswell) relatives were Shoalers on Star from mid 1600s to early 1800s when William Caswell (my 2nd GG) moved to Rye, NH and became a farmer.

      • Tracy Caswell says:

        Hello David,
        I have recently started researching my Caswell lineage. May ask who the father is of your 2nd GG William?
        Thank you in advance!

        • David Caswell says:

          Samuel Caswell, b1761-d1846

        • David Caswell says:

          Tracy, R U a Isles of Shoals related Caswell or anywhere in NH/MA/ME coast areas? If yes please contact me via email @ dtcaswell at yahoo.com for more family info. We’re looking for cousins for a reunion in August. David

  10. S Pride says:

    My family is Spiller. Henry married Sarah Moore Welcom and had custody of her children from Zachaus Welcom. Interesting Island history

  11. B Bearden says:

    My family is Babb, Thomas, Sr, born on Hog Island, circa 1664, married Bathsheba Hussey (my line) and Elizabeth Conway..
    Interesting history lesson!

    • Laurence says:

      Greetings! I’m researching all 17th-century families at the Isles of Shoals. What documents do you have regarding Bathsheba Hussey and Thomas Babb? Perhaps you’d like to join our Isles of Shoals Historic and Research Association conference June 22-26th. Details are at starisland.org. Thx, Laurence Bussey

  12. Barbara Carlson Shearer says:

    My family genealogy in Kittery point consists of Randall, Hill, Hussey etc. I have seen the Randall bldg. on a picture of the shoals. Anyone knowing anything about the Randall family there? Besides their house.

  13. Jax Sanders says:

    I’m looking for information on the Saunders (Sanders) family. There was a great gale of 1770 where a number of Saunders family men were lost at sea with in-laws “Yeaton”,
    The Saunders came from Torbay, England (Devon). Are there graves in Gosport/Isle of Shoals? Any records of the names of the famlies that lived there. Robert Saunders died 3/7/1807 at Isle of Shoals, NH. He was 92 years old. I’m looking for any records whatsoever on a Robert Saunders family. His sons would have been Samuel Saunders (Sanders), John Saunders(Sanders), and George Saunders. All sons born in Torbay England but apparently came over with their father Robert Saunders (Sanders).

  14. LGoss says:

    My 7th great grandfather fished off of Star Island. Do you have any records of a Richard Goss who lived in the late 1600s and died in 1714. I have visited his grave in Ipswich, MA.

    • Janice Brown says:

      LGoss, you and I potentially are distant cousins. The Richard Goss (Senior) was “kinsman” to Eleanor/Elinor wife of William Urin/Vrin/Euins an Isle of Shoaler. The kinsman relationship is not exactly understood. Elinor was born abt 1624 in England and died September 1699 at Boston MA. I descend from Richard & Elinor’s son, John Urin/Vrin/Urann (1655-1734). Richard Goss mostly shows up in old New Hampshire land transactions and as a witness to various documents. Ancestry has a probate record dated 23 Mar 1719 for a Richard Goss. Unsure if this is the father or the son.

  15. Rosanne Worsley says:

    My ancestor was Thomas Drover born 1764 Ringwood, Hampshire, England and died 1832 in Gosport.

    I believe he may have first travelled to Upper Island Cove, NL with his brother Joseph and sister Mary. They both died in Upper Island Cove NL.

    I have been unable to find any other information on him.

  16. coachvogel says:

    This is all very fascinating. William Urin is my 9th great-grandfather. I come from his son, Francis’s line. Thanks for the info.

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